The Ultimate Bonefishing Location

Is Fanning Island the ultimate remote bonefishing adventure destination? Let’s discuss.

First up, just getting there is not for the faint-hearted. You will fly from Hawaii or Fiji into Kiritimati (pronounced Christmas), Kiribati. You’re now only a one hour and 15 minute flight away from the atoll of Tabuaeran, also known as Fanning Island – the fourth largest island among the 32 making up the Republic of Kiribati.

Image: Tabuaeran’s atoll (circled in red above) sits 1,800km (1,100 miles) below Hawaii and 420km north of the Equator.

With only 2,000 local residents, Fanning Island has been dubbed ‘the world’s most remote inhabited island’. But long term habitation is in doubt due to the atoll having a maximum elevation of only three meters (10 feet) above high tide.

You’ll land near Napari (or Napali), a village located at the north end of Tabuaeran atoll, north of the Tabuaeran Airport (flight code: TNV). Then it’s a 15-20 minute boat ride, directly from the airport to your beachside lodgings on the lagoon side of the atoll.

Image: The flight time from Cassidy International Airport (CXI), Kiritimati to Aérodrome de Tabuaeran in the village of Napari is 1 hour 15 minutes, covering 300km.

From your base here, the daily travel is simple. The atoll is only 10 miles long by 5 miles wide so travel to fishing spots within the lagoon is a breeze.

Image: Fanning Island comprises acres of brilliant white sand flats that are rarely fished. As seen in this image, the airfield bisects this ring atoll below the Napari settlement.

Well, you’ve made it to Fanning. Clearly you’re a die-hard saltwater angler looking for the ultimate in Bonefish and Giant Trevally fishing with a fly. A maximum of six anglers are permitted to fish the island each week so you’re in rarified company.

In addition to casting for double digit Bonefish and monster GT’s, expect to fish for Bluefin Trevally, big bumpies (Bumphead Parrotfish), Napoleon Wrasse and many more species.

On arrival at Fanning Island, you’ll appreciate the equatorial weather.  It’s a consistent 24-29°C (75-85°F) all year around.  Being so close to the equator means sunrise and sunset are always within 15 minutes of 6.00am and 6.30pm. You have up to ten hours a day of fishing available to you.

Below, let’s go over a typical Fanning Island itinerary (two options via Australia/New Zealand, or via Honolulu), the flight challenges, fishing licences, anticipating costs for your stay, tackle requirements and priority items to pack for your adventure here. We have some crucial information to share on how things work over there. But first, let’s talk about the fishing.

Image: Fanning Island Outfitters’ open air huts provide a rustic and remote vibe for those not seeking a luxury lodge experience.

There have been a few false starts in getting a commercial fly fishing operation underway on Fanning Island. Chatting to The Fly Shop recently, they advised that they have previously tried to arrange some trips in the past, but the rough living and difficult logistics combined to stifle angler interest.

Regular flights to the island commenced in 2016 so the island has been little fished over the past decade.

Fanning Island Outfitters was then formed with owner and head guide, Mwatanga Aran (Matt) proving himself nimble and resourceful over the extremely difficult Covid period and with the subsequent flight challenges in regular access to the atoll.

Matt also operates the newly opened Tropical Flats Fishing Lodge on Kiritimati (Christmas Island), so is able to offer quality fishing opportunities at both locations. Clearly, the fishing on Kiritimati is good enough for many destination anglers so Fanning Island needs to be something special to warrant the extra travel, costs, time delays and hard living. And it is.

Fanning Island - The Fishing

You can also elect to fish the openings and shallow reef structures for large GT’s to mix things up.

This is a relatively new destination, but the local guides are well trained and highly experienced. They understand the local tides, the weather and what’s worked in the past.

Plan to be on the island during the quarter moon cycles to take advantage of neap tides to maximise time of the saltwater flats if your main target is active bonefish. For more GT action, the full and new moons drive bigger tide swings.

There are numerous fish species including trevally and wrasses. Bonefish are less populous than on the Kiritimati flats but are larger. You’ll see plenty of 4-5lb bones, and enough 7-8lb fish and larger to want to extend your stay!

Bumphead Parrotfish, sized 5lb-20lb are also a likely target in the shallow reefs and prized by saltwater anglers.

Giant and Bluefin Trevally sightings will be frequent. Please advise your guide if you want to target these behemoths. GT’s will average 40-50lb with larger fish caught regularly, so think carefully about your tackle requirements. Bluefin Trevally are more likely to be in the 8-10lb range.

Fanning Island - The Details

Currency

Most anglers travelling to Fanning Island will also be fishing on Christmas Island (Kiritimati) to make the most of this Pacific Ocean destination. If you’re fishing on CXI, you’ll need to purchase a CXI fishing licence prior to leaving the airport. Your licence payment must be made in Australian currency ($AUS) so make sure to have Australian currency on hand. They will not accept payments in $USD.

However gratuities for guides and lodging staff on both islands can be paid in US$ or Australian currency as you wish.

You’ll also need a separate fishing licence for Fanning Island. This will be arranged by your outfitter.

Lodgings & Meals

Supplies are shipped onto the island infrequently. And due to limited refrigeration, solar power and gas, meals are primarily seafood with rice, sandwiches, fresh fruit from the island, and the like – to maximise local ingredients and the sparse energy supplies. Pack your favourite snacks, drinks and any alcoholic beverages you wish to take, subject to weight and flight restrictions.

Telecommunications

You may wish to bring a Garmin InReach Mini2 or similar satellite messaging device to keep in touch with family. Alternatively a satellite phone, such as the Iridium Extreme favoured by Southflyfisher, is an excellent device to pack.

Image: Fanning Island Outfitters compound – Anyone for coconut?

Flights to Fanning Island

The early arrival time gives you an option for a full day of fishing on Christmas Island if you choose.

From Continental USA

This is where the logistics get even tricker. Previously there was a Thursday flight to Fanning Island but these have now moved to Tuesday and Saturday. So due to landing on Wednesday, you can book in for some warm up fishing on Christmas Island for two days - Thursday and Friday, CXI time.

Saturday Flight to Fanning

You then have the option to just fish the fabulous Fanning flats for 2 full days (Sunday & Monday) and fly back to CXI on Tuesday afternoon,(morning fishing is optional) or stay until the next flight.

Back to CXI

Those flying to Australia or New Zealand have the option of a half day of fishing as your Wednesday flight doesn’t depart until 4.20pm.

Want another week on the Island?

The extra days provide an opportunity to explore the atoll more fully. You’ll find happy people living a simple uncluttered life, interesting local buildings and the isolation may change your perception of life for ever.

Outfitter’s Pricing

For a longer stay comprising 3 days of fishing on CXI and 9 days fishing Fanning Island, the 2024 price is US$8,600.

Inclusions

These prices include your lodgings on CXI and Fanning, all meals, airport transfers, your round air trip to Fanning Island, shared boat/driver, personal fishing guide and your Fanning Island fishing licence. Pricing is comparable with other bonefishing locations, but without the high class lodgings you might find on the more populated localities.

Exclusions

Your international airfares from your port of departure/arrival into and from Kiritimati (CXI) are excluded and any charges for overweight luggage. You’ll need to budget separately to pay gratuities for staff and guides, to buy your CXI fishing licence (currently A$60 per week – pay cash at airport on arrival into CXI airport), departure taxes, plus remember to bring any alcohol, mixes, drinks or snacks you may wish to pack.

Gratuities

As a guide, you may wish to pass on a $10pp per day tip to the lodge owner on the last night of your stay for each staff member, plus $10/day for the boat driver when you leave the boat each afternoon, and $40/day for your guide, paid daily at the end of the day. This can be paid in either US or Australian currency.

Tackle to Pack for Fanning Island

Ideally, you’ll have a waterproof submersible backpack that will double as your carry-on bag for flights, and be repacked for daily trips on the pangas during your Fanning Island stay, and will carried by you or your guide during your CXI fishing.

Carry on Bag (ideally roll-top waterproof)

• Phone & phone charger

• Passport and required Visa for destination entry

• Wallet - credit cards, ID & foreign currency in cash

• Flight Tickets & Itinerary (leave print copies at home too)

• Camera, charger & cables, batteries & storage cards

• Neck cushion and earplugs (if you use these)

• Headphones or earbuds

• Fishing Magazine (comment below if you want our recommendations!)

• Medication (non-liquid only) and any sleeping aids

• Toiletries for the flight

• Sunglasses

• Extra clothing if heading into a cooler climate

• Notepad and pen

• Spare reel & line, a small bag of flies, just in case your expedition bag doesn’t make it to your destination. (Check with airline as some regard lines and hooks as weapons!)

• Rods in Rod Tube or Rod Bag (you might be able to carry on your rods depending on the airline’s carry-on specs - check with them first!)

Expedition Bag (Duffel bags are great)

• Photocopy of your passport

• Backup print-out of your itinerary including flight tickets

• Main camera, lenses, charged batteries, charger & cables

• Warm Jacket - pack at airport if coming from cold climate

• Headwear - cap and wide-brimmed hat in muted colors

• Robust sun gloves (UPF50) - bring two pair in muted colors

• Neckwear - insect & sun protection

• Headlamp - fully charged with spare batteries or charger

• 2 Sets of Polarized Sunglasses (Amber/Copper and Green/Blue)

• Fishing Shirts (3 or more)

• Fishing Pants (3 or more)

• Pyjamas –especially if you’re sharing a room!

• Togs or swimsuit

• A couple of casual clothing outfits

• Any special alcoholic or food treats (Customs approved of course)

• Toiletries and personal effects

• Medication (e.g. liquids that aren’t allowed in carry-on)

• Sunscreen & Insect Repellent

• Pre-moistened lens cloths

• Small roll of tape and few zip ties for unforeseen repairs

• Lightweight packable rain jacket

Fishing Tackle for Saltwater Flats

• 7wt or 8wt fly rod, reel, tropical floating line & backing

• Optional 10wt rod, reel, tropical floating line & backing

• 11wt to 12wt fly rod, robust reel & at least two tropical floating lines if you’re planning to targeting Giant Trevally (GT’s)

• Flats fishing boots

• Neoprene socks

• Polypropylene Liner socks

• Flats Bag - waterproof backpack, hip bag or sling pack (doubles as your carry on bag ideally)

• Flies – see our fly list below

• Saltwater leaders in 10, 12, 16 & 20lb - bring a few of each

• Fluorocarbon tippet – 12, 16, 20 & 40lb

• Plus 60, 80 & 100lb tippet to target GT or if trolling

• Reusable water bottle in your Flats bag

• Plastic garbage bags to store any wet clothes, boots, etc on your return flight

• Fly tying gear (optional)

Flies

• Christmas Island (CXI) Special in Pearl, Orange & Tan (bead-chain & lead eyes)

• Mantis Shrimp patterns in Tan

• Crazy Charlies in Orange & Pink

Giant Trevally baitfish flies including:

• GT Brush Fly in Tan, Grey and Black in size 6

• Crystal Poppers in size 4

Algae flies for Milkfish

Crab flies for Triggers, Permit & Parrotfish

If you want to troll, bring some large red and white or purple and white flies. Bait patterns work best.

Flats Bag

• Sunscreen UPF70+

• Sun gloves

• Sports tape for blisters or hook injuries

• Tippet material in 12, 16, 20, 40, plus 60, 80, 100lb for GTs

• 6 leaders in 10, 16 & 20lb weights

• Quality Hemostats

• Nippers

• Small Pocket Knife

• High quality Saltwater Pliers (never put your fingers near the mouth of a Triggerfish!)

• Camera

• Polarized Sunglasses

• Wide brimmed hat

• Clothing - cool & warm layers

• Rain jacket

• Nutritious snacks/energy bars

• Water (Pro tip: add electrolyte sachets)

Assume that no supplies are available at either destination and pack accordingly. Remember that you’re heading into strong sunlight and wind so be prepared to protect yourself from heat, sun rays and wind damage to lips and skin.

At the end of your trip, please discuss with your guide and outfitter about passing on first aid supplies to the local medical center, and feel free to pack some treats, school supplies, tees and caps for the local kids.

Please let us know if you’ve had any experience on Fanning Island or would like to contribute a guest article on your bonefishing expedition at this remote location – perhaps the ultimate bonefishing location on earth.