Fishing the Rio Grande

The majority of the Rio Grande’s 200km length sits on the Chilean side of the border. Whilst much has been written about the Rio Grande river in Argentinian Patagonia, its lodges and tributaries such as the Rio Menendez, less is known about the amazing fishing opportunities that the Rio Grande offers upstream of the Argentina-Chile border.

The Rio Grande

Patagonia’s Rio Grande river is celebrated as a consistent producer of stunning Sea-Run Brown Trout, making it a revered bucket list angling destination for fly fishers worldwide.

With the Rio Grande typically experiencing runs of up to 85,000 fish moving through the river each year, during the best fishing months anglers can expect to catch at least one or two large Sea Trout most days in the range of 7 to 17 pounds. That’s quite unlike most other known sea run fisheries.

Although the Rio Grande is easily waded with an alluvial gravel riverbed sourced from continual building of glacial deposits at the head of the river, access is privately held by the various estancias and lodge operators lining the riverbanks for the length of the river.

In addition to the anadromous Brown Trout, King Salmon and Steelhead present in the river system, are Brook Char (Brook Trout) and resident Browns and Rainbows. The breadth of fishing is not often discussed as the focus reasonably centres on the amazing Sea Trout population.

This article traverses the mighty Rio Grande upstream of the Chilean Border, explores its tributaries and recommends fishing tackle, fly selections and casting techniques.

If you are planning to visit the Rio Grande, consider fishing on the Chilean section of this river to maximise your opportunities and broaden your experience.

History

During the 1930’s Brown Trout ova was reared in Puerto Montt in Chile and fingerlings were released into tributaries of the Rio Grande. Atlantic Salmon and Rainbow Trout were also released. Stocking of Brown Trout continued later in the 20th Century.

Earliest recorded catches of resident fish were in 1937 but by the mid-1950’s, there were reports of large sea-run browns being caught.

The fish released into the upper Rio Grande and tributaries took hold in the river system, but outgrew the food supply as smolt, given the low volume of food available to the expanding fish numbers. They progressively dropped back downstream and into the ocean before returning to the Rio Grande to spawn.

A ‘Catch & Release’ requirement was introduced to the Rio Grande in 1986 with anecdotal reports confirming a consistent increase in fish weights as a result of these regulations. Twenty pound plus (20lb+) catches are now commonplace with an occasional giant thirty pound plus (30lb+) Fuegan fish caught each season.

Traveling to the Rio Grande

Anglers seeking to fish the Chilean side of the Rio Grande will typically fly into Santiago (SCL) and down to Punta Arenas (PUQ), overnight there, then ferry over to Porvenir and drive south the next morning.

Alternatively fly into and overnight in Buenos Aires, and take the morning flight down to either Rio Grande (RGA) or Ushuaia (USH) then exit through the Argentinian border at Paso Bella Vista to get to your Chile-domiciled lodge or estancia location.

Check the best times for domestic transfers with your lodge operator or outfitter as landing times might dictate the best location to meet your lodge transfer host.

Your outfitter will arrange for return travel to airport at Punta Arenas, Rio Grande township or Ushuaia to meet your domestic flight to Santiago or Buenos Aires at the end of your visit.

Ushuaia is a tourist town worthy of exploring so consider booking an extra day/night if flying out of the most southern city in the world.

You might also choose to do a further week elsewhere in Tierra Del Fuego, or chase some large Rainbows in Lago Strobel (Jurassic Lake) before heading north.

Upper Rio Grande Fishing

As stated earlier, the majority of the Rio Grande river system is sited west of the Chilean/Argentinian border. Cameron Lodge sits on the left bank to the north. The true right bank of the Rio Grande and its major tributaries, spawning streams and lagos is owned by a large family farming station, Estancia Las Segadas, that has not yet established a fishing lodge and has not provided consistent access to any guiding operations or lodges. Therefore, this area should be considered virgin water.

Timing your visit is likely to align with the sea trout runs, but at other times, the quality of the fishing on the Chilean border is surprisingly good. In addition to the huge and consistent late season runs of Sea-Run Browns in late January to early April, there are early season runs of King Salmon (November) and a lessor run of Steelheads, plus resident Browns, Rainbows and pockets of Brook Trout to cast to on the estancia throughout summer. Although the season closes in April, fishing is generally rested from the end of March to allow for spawning to continue without human disturbance.

It is perhaps not well known is that the Chilean side of the Rio Grande boasts a strong spring run of King Salmon up the Rio Blanco tributary that cuts through the estancia. This may be a reason to book for an early season trip. It is hoped that this run will continue to grow in future years and represents a chance to get the Grand(e?) Slam of Salmon/Brown/Rainbow on the same property.

The Rio Grande and its Chilean tributaries and lakes also hold large resident browns and, also perhaps less known, house some decent rainbows right through the season. Amid this stunning large sea-run trout environment, it’s perhaps easy to discount the high quality of the resident trout, but catching 5-6lb resident trout is outstanding fishing anywhere. If you’re considering a trip to Argentina or Chile to fish other waters, this extraordinary location offers you the range of fish and in sizes commonly available in the other provinces, as well as many chances at large 10lb+ sea trout!

Exploring the Chilean-side tributaries is an opportunity not available at other Rio Grande lodges and the estancia offers intimate fishing in smaller waters – particularly enjoyable on a still morning before tackling up for the Rio Grande in the afternoon.

Lago Blanco can be accessed from the eastern side of the lake, beyond the vast lands of the estancia and some guiding operations will take anglers onto the lake, but it is not possible to access beyond the lake and up the Rio Blanco river onto the estancia estate.

In addition to the Rio Blanco tributary, the Rio Riveros further to the west, weaves its way across the bleak land, meandering northeast before its eventual confluence with the main Rio Grande flow. Many of the spring creeks, lake outlets and smaller Rio Grande tributaries such as the Rio Chicos between two lakes and the upper section of the Rio Grande remain mostly unexplored and represent an opportunity for discovery for guide and client if desired.

The estancia comprises pampas (desert) grasslands rising into undeveloped foothills, with clear lake-fed streams carving out their winding pathway to the Rio Grande. There are even beaver ponds to explore and fish.

Local birdlife to be spotted includes soaring Andean condors with a wingspan almost as long as your fly rod, gaggles of Greater Magellan geese, rheas (also known as ñandus or South American ostrich), and chimango caracara (a falcon subspecies). Expect to see the ubiquitous guanacos and the elusive South American grey foxes. A lucky visitor might spot a rare Fuegian fox (Patagonian red fox) – the second largest native Canid in South America.

Fishing Tackle and Techniques

You should expect to hook 7-9lb sea-run trout consistently with the right guide, tackle and techniques delivered with experience. You are also likely to get onto some in the 12-15lb range and perhaps even connect with a 20lb+ fish during your week-long visit.

With that in mind, stout gear is required for this destination. If you have experience swinging flies for salmon on Spey gear, your fishing on the main Rio Grande river will be familiar.

Most double handed rigs utilise a floating head and an intermediate to heavy sink-tip. Casting down and across the pool at an acute 70° angle (or across at 90° for some streamers) allows the fly to sink with an upstream mend. Then swing it back to the near bank keeping a direct connection to the fly. Twitching and short strips vary the presentation and can stimulate a strike.

Trout Spey: Using a modern #4-7 weight double handed (10-11 foot long) Switch or Trout Spey rod with floating line will allow you to cover most water in the Rio Grande.

Spey: A longer (13 foot long), stronger Spey rod in the #8-9 weight vicinity will also be useful for fighting larger fish and casting heavier flies on Skagit heads – if at all required. The bigger Spey rods are great when fishing into the long evening as the light dips and when larger flies are preferred.

Get a 6 piece rod, such as Epic’s Reference Series 13’ Spey Rod, to aid packing for your international and domestic flights. This can avoid checking in a separate rod tube and will help keep your kit together during transit.

Single Handed: Single handed medium-fast modern rods (7-8 weight SH) with floating lines and shorter tips can be used on calmer days and with lighter flies on smaller water.

Reels: Make sure you bring quality reels with strong usable drag, minimal startup inertia and decent ergonomics. Pack spare spools if running multiple line options and bring a back up reel. You’re a long way from a fly shop.

The obvious stated, the lodges and outfitters customarily hold additional rods, reels, lines and flies if you’re caught out due to lost luggage or need additional gear.

Technique: Prepare for ridiculously strong gusts and constant wind. Calmer days will then be a blessing! The undulating terrain further up the river does provide greater protection from the worst of the wind though. And on a positive note, the prevailing winds blowing from the Andes towards the sea do actually assist casting across and downstream. Plus the resultant ripple on the surface, together with shallow water that is stirred up from the wind, helps to hide you and your tippet and flies from these wary fish.

These southern hemisphere sea trout should be fished for with a careful presentation, despite the heavier gear adopted on this mid-sized river. They are easily put down with a careless cast or a fly landed heavily and you can spook the lie with careless and unnecessary casting. Generally, the further up the Rio Grande you fish, the clearer the water can be, so expect less turgid water on the Chilean side than towards the river mouth.

This validates the selection of more modest Switch gear with a Scandi line and a range of salmon-strength tips (floating/hover/intermediate/sinking) and tapered leaders, over heavier Spey tackle for this upstream section of the Rio Grande.

Tippet should be 0X fluorocarbon or monofilament nylon in the 0.028mm range and even stronger (16-20lb) if fishing into the evening when the fish are less likely to be leader shy.

For smaller waters such as the virgin tributaries further up the estancia and the tiny spring creeks, don’t forget to pack a single handed rod of 5 or 6 weight, lines, leaders, lighter tippet and suitable flies.

In case you find Salmon or Sea-Runs in the tributaries, Scientific Anglers, along with the other main brands, have good Salmon/Steelhead tapered leaders that are also worth packing and can be used together with your 8 weight SH rod.

Fly selection

If purchasing your Rio Grande flies, ensure they are all tied on heavy gauge hooks. Retrieving a straightened hook after a long fight with a porpoising Brown will not endear you to your guide and you’ll be left cursing your fly shop.

Some of the outfitters will prepare a comprehensive fly box as an optional add-on to your package. These are worthy of buying given the minimal cost against the total outlay of your travel. Here are some of the flies recommended for the Rio Grande.

Lighter Patterns

Despite the downstream fishing to large quarry, a decent river flow and often wintery conditions, there are some lighter flies that have achieved high popularity on the Rio Grande, such as the Green Machine – tied of deer hair but fished subsurface – fished with a medium sink tip or a slow sinking polyleader. Take brown-hackled and white-hackled variations.

The EMB with its rubber legs is a guide’s favourite also. Heck, anything with rubber legs seems to find favour down there! The Fire or Hothead EMB sports a fluoro-red bead head and the EMB is also tied with a fluoro-green bead head as a variant.

Yuk Bugs and Girdle Bugs fit into this category - both with rubber legs and are tied in a range of weights and sizes.

Pack your weighted brown-coloured Stoneflies and some Prince Nymph patterns too.

Streamer Patterns (all tied on single hooks)

Intruders – use Chartreuse or Blue/Chartreuse during the day, switching to Black/Chartreuse or Black/Silver towards sunset. Switch to a heavier version for deeper pools.

Collie Dog - typically tied as a tube fly and heavier than the Sunray, these are an old Scottish Salmon pattern. Bring a couple of sizes and weights, plus wide-gaped single hooks.

Cascade Monkeys, Skullhead Monkeys, and Classic dee Monkeys are worth bringing to provide a range of weight and size options. Again fish these square – across and down for best effect.

Sunray - a highly rated slim dark streamer fly imitating a fish or elver. Swing these across and down or vary your cast further upstream with a swing/fast retrieve style.

Rio Grande Leeches - intruder style zonker leeches using rabbit strips, in black, white and chartreuse, with black particularly effective for the evening sessions.

Woolly Buggers (local variants include the Green Lantern marabou bugger pattern) are well regarded the world over and work well down here. Tie with and without coneheads to vary depth of delivery.

The Yellow Yummy popularised on Rio Gallegos Steelhead is also worth including in your armory.

And if all else fails, do what they do in the New Zealand backcountry and toss out a weighted Squirmy Worm when nothing else is effective – but only if your guide gives you the nod to do so first.

Image: Intruder Black & Blue Fly from Fulling Mill

Fishing Apparel

Quality rubber soled wading boots and breathable chest waders are vital. With Didymo now present through the Rio Grande river system, make sure to disinfect your gear before heading back home.

It’s critical to stay warm on the river by using layers to combat the cold wind on your back. Having a high quality raincoat (wading jacket) and woollen hat is important to pack. You’re a decent run from shelter if a rain shower passes through.

Pack a couple of caps in case you lose one downstream in the breeze. And don’t be afraid to pack extra clothing for each day on the river. You’ll be able to leave your day bag in the guide’s vehicle that’s parked riverside, so pack what you might need, and leave a second warm set in your bag in case you need to layer up further into the evening. You may choose to wear a fishing bag with extra gear packed or left in the truck. Many anglers choose to run a submersible lumbar hip bag on the waist with the basics on hand and extra stores back at the car.

As the day progresses you’ll need different requirements so plan ahead daily. Add some sunscreen before you depart the camp and keep some at hand to reapply during the day. Equally gloves or mittens plus a fingerless fishing option are all important to have at hand; even in your wader chest pocket for easy access on cold days.

Your guide will have a net of sufficient size to land your trophies so leave that at home. He (or she) will also have fluids, snacks and extra flies.

Pack a fully charged headlamp to aid late fly changes, help you get back to the vehicle and for when you arrive back at the lodge. Finally, don’t forget your camera.

Fishing the Rio Grande is a trip of a lifetime for some lucky anglers. If you’re able to get down to Patagonia, consider fishing the Chilean portion of the Rio Grande to maximise your sea-run trout expedition to make the most of your angling adventure.