If you’re looking to catch the trio of Permit, Tarpon and Bonefish, consider Xcalak south of the Mexican ‘Riviera Maya’ for a reasonably priced destination.
Situated only six miles above the Belize/Mexico border, this seaside village is an out-of-the-way, relatively unsophisticated haven for passionate saltwater anglers.
Xcalak (pronounced ‘ish-kalak’) is located in the Quintana Roo province at the base of the Yucatan Peninsula. For years, anglers have driven some 400 miles (650km) driving south from Cancun on an ever-deteriorating road surface for 6-7 hours. But there’s now an easier way to Xcalak, as covered in my ‘Getting There’ section.
This article outlines four accommodation/guiding options, some chat about embracing the barracuda (not literally please), and a bunch of fishing tips to get you started on your planning.
Don’t forget to arrange your Mexican fishing licence online before you depart. It will only set up back around UD$26 for a week.
Make sure to wear your Xcalak National Reef Park Pass access wristband each day. Your accommodation provider or outfitter can help sort this for you, or head down to the Parque Nacional Arrecifes de Xcalak (between the beach and the football field) to buy one. This fee helps support the reef’s preservation.
Welcome to Xcalak. Bienvenido!
Fishing Locations
Immediately north of Belize, Xcalak, in the Mexican municipality of Othón P. Blanco, shares the expansive Chetumal Bay flats with its southern neighbour.
The region’s Caribbean shore comprises part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, dubbed the second-largest coral reef in the world. Xcalak derives its ‘twins’ moniker from the Mayan name for the two chutes that feed clear water through the barrier reef from the Caribbean Sea.
The village of less than 400 inhabitants offers fishing options in the mangrove lagoons, the saltwater flats and the bay.
The focus here is on the mighty Permit, Tarpon and the ubiquitous bonefish, plus the opportunity for snook, and some fun sport on Snapper/Jacks, Triggerfish and Barracuda.
North of Xcalak are some large landlocked lagoons that require special consideration if your time here allows. If you’re looking for large Tarpon and Snook, this is the place to come. Read the Tarpon section below.
Make sure you can cast into the ever-present trade winds, with plenty of double haul practice with and against wind before you arrive.
The Fishing
First up, there are crocodiles. Best not to fish for them. The BIG barracuda on the other hand are going to have a crack at your fish and flies, so pack your ‘cuda rigs and have a crack back at them. Leader length should be around 8ft of stiff 30-40lb saltwater fluorocarbon finished with a 30lb+ wire tippet.
You might also see some Snook if you’re chasing Tarpon in the mangroves and hit some Snapper/Mangrove Jacks during the day too, even triggerfish in the coral heads. Enjoy the variety.
Permit
Let’s start with the many Permit in the picturesque Bay of Chetumal. As is typical for this species anywhere, getting an eat can be vexing. The first few hours of the morning is prime time for hunting Permit. The May to July quarter is the best time of the year to visit, but Permit are here all year around.
Your guide will help you to avoid the large schools of smaller fish and point out the bigger Permit hanging out with the rays as they like to do. Target the larger, tailing fish that are actively feeding, either deeper further out against the reef edge closer to safety, or right into the Bay flats where you’ll try to place the fly in front of their nose. Advanced casting, careful placement and as delicate a presentation as possible is important, often with the wind howling past you. You’ll get plenty of shots.
Use softer, lifelike tan or olive EP Crabs, Fleeing crab and raghead patterns as per the preferred Belize selection, plus a wide range of weight options for your tan and sand coloured size #6 mantis shrimp, selecting lighter chain-bead and very light lead head patterns for the shallower water. Stay stealthy!
A slow steady retrieve over the flats will work well, but be prepared for refusals and long days on the panga. Pack sunscreen, face masks and gloves.
You’ll want two strong 9/10wt 9’ rods for Permit, plus a 7 or 8wt 9’ rod for the many bonefish you’re run into during the day. Set one of your Permit rods up with a sink tip line (try the Rio Elite Flats Pro Stealth Tip Fly Line WF9F/I) and one with floating line (Rio Elite Permit or SA’s equivalent). Remember that the Scientific Anglers Amplitude Grand Slam is a three-quarters heavy line, Amplitude Infinity is a half-size heavy line. Textured is not as friendly on RECoil guides as the smooth option but choose what you’re most comfortable with.
Use a 9ft tapered leader (saltwater fluorocarbon) 16lb (0.013in diameter) up to 20lb and a couple of spools of fresh, high quality 12lb and 16lb saltwater fluorocarbon tippet.
As you move closer to the reef edge, ramp up the weight of your flies to get quickly to the right depth. Both for Bones and for Permit, particularly if you have some wind to help hide the water entry.
Use a 9ft tapered leader (saltwater fluorocarbon) 16lb/0.013in diameter with some quality 12ft saltwater fluorocarbon tippet. The same leader/tippet combo will suffice for Bonefish too.
Bonefish
There are big schools of small Bones in Chetumal Bay, so as with the Permit, try to identify the larger tailing feeders outside the schools. They’ll average 3-5lb and fight well.
Your 16lb leader/12lb tippet combo will work well for Bonefish on a 7/8wt 9’ rod and a quality reel with as much backing as you can fit on the spool. Bring a second rod in case of disaster or to carry a clear tipped F/I line, but a heads up that there are reports of some anglers experiencing difficulties trying to depart via Mexican airports with more than 4 rods packed and being pressured to pay duties or having them confiscated.
Don’t be afraid to throw some #6 and #8 flies at them and watch hard for the eat. You generally don’t need to go down to the smaller #10 CXI patterns. Get something out with some profile, Hawaii style, but keep a few smaller Crazy Charlies and Gotchas on hand for the shallowest water. Pack some Bonefish Bitters for smaller water and calm days, as well as some spawning shrimp and mantis shrimp patterns in differing weights.
Tarpon
Early morning, expect to get shots at baby (migratory) tarpon from 5-15lb cruising the mangrove channels looking for a feed. You’ll be ok with your 8/9wt rod, but pack your 10wt for bigger fish if Tarpon is on your ‘must-catch’ list as there are other close-by locations with large Tarpon up to 90lb.
For the Chetumal Bay channels and lagoons, pack spools of 20/30/40lb tippet material. Black and Purple tarpon flies work down here. Tie or buy plenty of Sabalo Yucatan Flies (red & white) in 1/0 hook size, plus clouser minnows, plus some of Homer Rhodes’ Seaducers (also red & white) for the Snook.
North of the fishing village of Mahahual (40 minutes from Xcalak), there are a dozen or so landlocked (anchialine) lagoons holding big Snook, Tarpon,and Jacks. Consider hiring Nick Denbow to fish here. He’s been chasing big Tarpon for over 40 years and guiding for more than 30 years.
Expect to find some decent Tarpon up to 90lb and Snook exceeding 30lb, so bring your 50lb tippet and 90lb shock tippet for larger fish. Pack plenty of big flies such as black Woolly Buggers with bead chain eyes tied on strong 1/0 hooks.
Accommodation & Guides
Regardless of where you stay, pack your snorkel and mask. And if you’re sore at the end of the day, there is a local massage therapist with star credentials.
Xflats at the Tierra Maya Lodge
One of the municipality’s top new operators and Colorado guide, Jesse Colton runs Xflats. The Tierra Maya Lodge has seven beachfront villas, each with ceiling fans, Mayan warrior decorations and with a daily cleaning service. There’s a 200ft pier right outside where your guide will pick you each morning after breakfast at The Fish Bar. Prices reflect the high quality of service and lodgings.
Xcalak On The Fly (XOTF)
XOTF owned by Jim and Chase Looney (Alaskan fishing guides) sports a length stretch of beachfront, complete with Cape Cod style chairs beneath grasstop cabanas, a pool and a limited number of well-appointed beachfront suites with WiFi, at the well-appointed Casa Paraiso. This off-grid, eco-friendly lodge comfortably caters for twelve anglers in double rooms. Book well in advance.
Enjoy your breakfast burritos in the onsite Permit Palapa Restaurant before heading off for a day of action.
Costa de Cocos
This simple resort hotel provides beachfront access, reasonable cabana accommodation (no A/C, just fans) and amenities. These include the Reel Inn restaurant, a bar with nano brewery – try the Tarpon Tale Pale Ale, Costa Maya Sunrise Amber Ale and Permit Me-1 Porter – and a distillery called Mango Moonshining (what could go wrong?).
You can secure independent day guides for ~US$350 per angler day (two per boat) or ask the hotel to arrange them for you.
Caribbean Casa Blanca
If you want an apartment for the week, the Casa Blanca is a good option. Then head up to the Costa de Cocos for refreshments and dinner when you don’t feel like cooking.
Getting There
You can drive to Xcalak from your International Airport or charter a plane for your group.
Charter Flights to Mahahual
Groups may choose to fly into the local aerodrome at Mahahual, less than an hour transfer from the beachfront accommodation. This can be arranged by your specialist agent or the lodges.
A return charter with Vuelatour from Cancun International Airport to Mahahual will cost approximately US$3,500 to $6,000 for a group of four to nine passengers, depending on the particular plane to be chartered, which is dependent on your combined load weight (people & luggage).
Driving from Cancun International Airport (CUN)
This is the traditional way to Xcalak. Fly into Cancun International Airport (CUN), grab a rental and drive south for 6-7 hours, watching the navigation carefully whilst looking out for speed bumps and wildlife. Read below before booking your flight into Cancun!
Driving from Tulum International Airport (TQO)
I’ve saved the best advice to last. Felipe Carrillo Puerto International Airport (TQO), also known as Aeropuerto Internacional de Tulum, opened for international flights on March 28, 2024.
Tulum halves your drive time down to 3.5 hours. Simply fly into Tulum International Airport in Quintana Roo. Then it’s a 170 mile (270km) trip south to your cold Tarpon Tale Pale Ale at the Costa de Cocos bar. The road is paved. Take your time and enjoy the journey.
Oh, one final tip. Mahahual (Google Maps link) is your last village to gas the vehicle before Xcalak so fill up here.
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